Barcelona

Barcelona didn’t become a Top 5 most-visited destination until after the 1992 Olympics. Before that, less than 2 million visitors came each year. Today, over 7.5 million people with hopes to reach 10 million in the next few years (source). Quite a feat for a city that has a population of only 1.6 million.

Visiting it for the first time this past May, I can see why so many people flock here. The sights, architecture, neighborhoods,  food, beaches, and culture…it has something for everyone. Even the approach flying into Barcelona was beautiful: passing over a mountain range, followed by a coastal decent into the main airport just outside the city.

Barcelona was also the place where I tried AirBnB for the first time. I was eager to partake in the “Sharing Economy” and was fortunate enough to find a small room for rent right off of the main pedestrian area along La Rambla. The quiet street provided solace at night when sleeping but was also near the metro system and one of the main plazas: Plaça de Catalunya.

La Rambla (also goes by Las Ramblas due to all the adjoining streets)

Getting Around:

Barcelona is well served by an extensive underground metro system. However, depending on where you stay, it is best to walk through the neighborhoods and take in the sights. Using the metro is mot applicable when trying to get out of the city center or to specific sites. However, if you chose to use the metro several times, buy a 10-trip metro card (called the T10) for 10.30€ instead of paying 2.15€ for each ride.There are also multi-day passes available starting at 14€.

To get from the airport, I recommend taking the Aerobus to the main plaza (Plaça de Catalunya.) for 10€ return ticket (roundtrip). It runs every 5 minutes and takes about 35 minutes to reach the plaza with only a few stops along the way. It is the cheapest and most convenient way in.

Sites:

La Rambla– this street is always a hub of activity. However, it’s frequently overrun with tourists and pickpockets, so I suggest getting off the main street by going down one of the side streets. Within only a few blocks you’ll still have plenty of options for food and drink, but without all the crowds and high prices.

Sagrada Família– Many have heard of this church designed by famed artist Antoni Gaudí. Construction started in 1882 and is still going on to this day, with the goal to complete the final touches of this massive church by 2026 to coincide with the centennial anniversary of Gaudí’s death. Truly a wonder to see inside and out, I highly recommend making it a place to visit. If you wish to go, plan to arrive early to avoid the crowds. When we visited, we arrived shortly after 9am and still had to wait 2 hours to get in the church. They limit the amount of visitors inside at any one time so buy your ticket as soon as you arrive and check your entrance time. Signage can be poor and with the constant movement of construction vehicles, one needs to be mindful when walking around. Visitors need to go to one side of the church to buy tickets and then go back around to the other side to enter. Tickets are 15€ with options to upgrade for tours and visits to one of the towers.

Sagrada Família- still under construction after 100 years

Parks– Barcelona has many public parks that are stunningly beautiful. Take some time to explore these at your leisure. I did one late morning and found myself coming across a virtual oasis in the city:

I stumbled upon this magnificent fountain in a city park (Parc de la Ciutadella)

Plaza’s– Like many other European cities, plaza’s have and still serve as important cultural and historical places. One such plaza (or Plaça) to explore is the Plaça d’Espanya and surrounding area. Built for the 1929 International Exposition (source), this plaza and accompanying street is beautiful and also the place where the Magic Fountain Show is displayed at night. From April through October, the show runs from Thursday-Sunday, every 1/2 hour after sunset. The rest of the year, shows run on Friday and Saturday evenings only. Best of all- it is free to attend and anywhere along the street gives you a great view.

The Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (National Art Museum) is located at the end of the Plaça d’Espanya. The fountains in front of the museum are part of the Magic Fountain Show

Other notable sites:

Olympic Facilities– Many of the facilities built for the 1992 Summer Olympic games still stand. Too bad many other cities have failed to have the lasting success the games are touted to bring to each city that hosts them.

Park Güell-set atop a hill, the park provides good sunset views. Also designed by Gaudí, walking around the perimeter is free, while paid entrance is required for the inner part.

Passeig de Gràcia (Main Street)- while touristy, this tree lined street has some amazing architecture.

Barcelona Cathedral– originally completed in 1420, it is a beautiful cathedral to visit. Located in the older part of town, you can find many free tours leaving from the square outside the cathedral.

Food:

Tapas: Typically small, simple appetizers served for free when one orders a drink, many places have taken an upscale approach to serving them as more of a meal than a complimentary piece with a drink. There are a seemingly endless array of tapas but many classics can be found almost everywhere. Acting upon a recommendation from a friend, I traveled to a small bar/restaurant in the Grácia neighborhood called La Gata Mala. It was authentic; no english, vibrant with culture, and best of all, delicious tapas served gratis with any drink ordered. Make sure you get there early and be sure to order the patatas bravas!

Tapas!

Also considered a style of tapas, pinchos are small handheld snacks that come in a variety of styles but are most commonly found with a skewer. You can choose from a variety of creations at most bars and can be ordered for 1€ a piece. My recommendation is to go to the Poble-Sec neighborhood, meandering through neighborhood along Carrer de Blai, where there are plentiful options to stop into one of the many bars and grab a drink and a few pinchos. This section is within walking distance from La Rambla and still holds onto the authentic Spanish feel.

Other notables:

Bar la plata-On career de la merce, they serve pescaito frito (fried little fish)- a must try!

Cerveceria la Surena– in the university area, they have a lunch special where you can choose 4 types of traditional Spanish foods together for under 6€.

St Joseph’s Market- while it can be considered a tourist trap, there are many small places in the back that serve up Spanish-style tapas in a lively environment steps from fresh fish and meat stalls.

Tips:

-Most signs are in both Spanish and Catalan (the official language of Barcelona). English translations are available in most places as well.

-Get the “menu del dia” for a good deal at lunch. Most places offer them and they tend to change the offer each day.

-There are countless cafes scattered throughout the city as well. I recommend Cafés El Magnífico for outstanding coffee. Also try Churros con Chocolate available at most cafes as well!

 

With many airlines serving Barcelona, avoid the main tourist season (June-August) and book your ticket! The beaches are plentiful, the food amazing, and the history fascinating. I can only hope that the few recommendations and pictures in this article help spur your interest to visit this culturally enriched city and all that it has to offer!

 

Note: Prices are accurate as of May 2015

Ireland

St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin

Dublin

Dublin was a bustling city and the first English-speaking country I had visited since arriving in Europe. We went in early May, and most of our stay was met with cold, damp weather (typical). We booked our accommodations smack in the middle of Temple Street, aka “party alley”. I would compare it to Bourbon Street in New Orleans, LA USA, where you can go from pub-to-pub, enjoying live (Irish) music at mostly every place.  It provided a great spot to use as a base to get around the city center, but not a location I would recommend if you are seeking a restful nights sleep.  There appeared to be many places on the other side of the Liffey River that would be suitable as well.

The Infamous Temple Bar

The River Liffey splits the city and provides ample walking paths along the river with many pedestrian crossover bridges.

On our second day, we decided to take one of the free walking tours. Our guide brought us around the main sights in the city center, including the remains of the original castle, old town, and Oxford University. As with almost all European countries, Ireland has had a storied history full of conflict and war, not gaining its independence from Great Britain until 1922.

Every statue seems to have a lucky spot you rub for good-luck…can you guess where you rub this one?

One sight that caught my attention was the Spire of Dublin. Located along a main shopping street, it was intended to serve as a symbol of the growth and prosperity of the city. However, it is more known to locals as a point of reference for drunk people trying to navigate their way home.

Guinness

The Guinness Storehouse, located in the eastern part of the city, used to be the primary place where Guinness was brewed. As production expanded, so did the need for a larger facility, and thus, the Storehouse became the place for the interactive tour. At 18 euros, I found it a little bit expensive, but we did our best to make the most of it. The tour itself is self-guided, and we took a few hours to meander through the several stories of the former factory. The culmination of the tour is going to the Guinness Academy, where you take a class on learning the methods behind pouring the perfect pint, and ending with earning  a certificate for pouring the perfect pint (which you then get to enjoy).

Guinness

Cliffs of Moher

I decided to tack on a few extra days after my brother and his friend left to head back to the United States. I was excited because I had booked a tour to the Cliffs of Moher, a must-see natural attraction located on the western coast of the country. We made several stops along the way, exploring some of the countryside, castles, and small towns that dot the country.

Our day-long tour saw its fair share of rain and we decided to try out our Irish luck at a wishing well along our way to The Cliffs. Well, it worked and when we arrived to the cliffs in the early afternoon, we were all pleased to see the rain clouds disappearing and the skies opening up. Rising over 700 feet at their highest point, The Cliffs attract up to 1 million visitors a year. You can walk along the side, exploring them from a variety of view points. They are truly an awe-inspiring sight to behold.

Cliffs of Moher

In conclusion…

Dublin…a place I was enthusiastic about visiting but left not feeling fulfilled…perhaps it was the weather, or the sticker shock I had to get adjusted to after living on beer as cheap as 1 Euro a pint compared to 6 Euros in some pubs in Dublin. Regardless of the atmosphere in the city, I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Irish countryside. I will likely return to Ireland one day (my family heritage has deep roots in the country), and spend my time exploring the smaller cities  (Cork, Galway, Belfast) and taking in the lush green countryside along the way.

Tips:

-If you buy your Guinness Storehouse tickets in advance online, you save 2 Euros.

-There are plenty of tours leaving daily to many of the main sites in Ireland.  Unless you are going at peak season, I recommend waiting until you arrive to book a tour (and to make sure the weather will be cooperative). There are a few tourism offices throughout the city center that can assist. However, for those who would like to know, I took my tour through Paddywagon, and the day-long trip was around $45 USD, all inclusive.

-There are plenty of other great local brews to try besides Guinness.

Lessons in Change

“Don’t cry because it’s over…smile because it happened” -Dr. Seuss

Leaving Prague…the people, places, culture, sounds, and even smells all made it an amazing place to live and work. I write this post as I reflect on the 1 year since I originally arrived in Prague and began my TEFL course. A lot has transpired since then and while I ended up leaving the Czech Republic this summer, the decision was certainly not easy.

If you had asked me 2 years ago where I saw myself, I would have never said living and working half way across the world. Well, the future is ours to create and that is what I did. Even as it could be viewed as a wild trajectory off the career path I had originally chosen out of college, I knew it was the right move.

As Ralph Waldo Emerson once said: “Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail”.

We each need to choose our own path to follow. While sometimes that path is one pre-determined by many other external factors, for others, they decide they do not want that, and blaze their own trail. So, instead of listing reasons for my leaving, I want to impart lessons I learned:

• Follow your passion and desires. I am confident you will not regret it.
• Everyday you’ll encounter new challenges and problems to solve, but you’ll feel the truest sense of freedom knowing you, and you alone, are responsible for your success or failure.
• Change is a part of live. Getting out of your comfort zone on a semi-regular basis helps you grow and does not become a burden for which you base your decisions on.
• Take time to reflect on what you have tried and accomplished. You’ll end up with a satisfied feeling.
• My “life experiment” in Prague was 1 year. I used to think that was a long time but over the course of a normal male life (in the US), it’s only 1.27%*
• Looking back, you will be more disappointed at the things you did not do rather than the things you did do.

Upon my own internal reflection, the experience changed my attitude towards life, views, and what I want to do with my life. No, not all my questions have been answered but I feel as though I gained clarity in a sense of what life should mean to me instead of one prescribed by others.

I have never had such feeling of freedom and exploration before: the sense of truly living. As many fellow expatriate’s can attest to, it is hard to sum up in words the feelings. Life is a journey and while I have my sights on several different opportunities that would allow me to continue this journey of exploration, education, and self-development, I know travel will always be an integral part of it.

Prague: You taught me immeasurable lessons about life, love, and living. It is a city I will always hold near and dear to me and one I will never forget…I will be there again.

So for now, it’s not a goodbye, but I’ll see you later

*Source: http://www.cdc.gov/nchs/fastats/life-expectancy.htm (78.8 years)

Its been a while…

…and I have a LOT to write about! Since my last post, a lot of changes have happened in my life: from my family visiting me abroad, moving out of the Czech Republic, traveling solo through Europe, returning to the USA, and then taking a 26 state road-trip, it has sure been a busy 4 months!

Now that some of the dust has settled, I am focused on writing more regularly. I have a lot of draft posts going and am looking forward to publishing on a more consistent basis. Some posts will include my final months in Prague, city reviews (e.g. Amalfi, Istanbul, Belgrade, and Amsterdam to name a few!), tips, lessons, and much more.

Thank you to those who have been following me since the beginning and stay tuned!

 

p.s. today marks 1 year since I initially traveled to the Czech Republic to begin my whirlwind adventure…how time flies!

10 Tips for Living and Working in Prague

Sunrise in Prague. Photo Courtesy of getrealluxury.com

As a “City of 100 Spires”, Prague has offered seemingly endless opportunities for exploration and growth. If you are interested in hearing about my tips for living and working in Prague, then please read my guest post from my TEFL School, Oxford TEFL.

 

Dresden, Germany

Dresden, a city once 90% destroyed during the bombing of Dresden in February 1945, shows few signs of its former ruins as it has been slowly rebuilt over the past 70 years. The city sits along the Elbe River and is close the Czech border, making it a nice day-trip from Prague.

One of the main bus companies (Eurolines) was offering a 2-for-1 ticket deal, with roundtrip tickets costing 425kc (~$16.50). So a group of us purchased tickets and our bus left Prague at 7am, making the 2 hour drive to the central station (Haúptbahnhof) in Dresden. After getting oriented, we walked to view one of the many old cathedrals, Kreuzkirche. Following the main road, we then went around to the main square (Neumarkt), where we saw Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). Originally from the 11th Century, it was rebuilt in 1743. Later, the church was absolutely demolished during the bombings, only to be completely restored in 2012.

Neumarkt with Frauenkirche to the right

We then walked by the Fürstenzug (Procession of Princes), the longest ceramic mural in the world, on the side of Dresden Castle. After roaming through the courtyard, we ate brunch outside Altmarkt area, enjoying the better-than-expected weather. With our stomachs full and thirst quenched, we toured Zwinger Palace. Originally part of the outer fortress wall protecting the city, it was later transformed into a museum complex. Most of the artwork collection was safely removed before the bombing and after being reconstructed, it opened back up in the mid-1960’s. While under some restoration work during our tour,  it was still a beautiful site to view. There was even a wedding couple getting photos taken.

Fürstenzug (Procession of Princes) at a length of 102 metres (335 ft)

The grounds inside Zwinger Palace

Dresden Castle

We then walked to the Semperoper (Opera House) before seeing the Dresden Cathedral as we walked over the Elbe River and toured the other side of the river. There was a beautiful pedestrian walkway lined with small shops and apartments. We spent a little time exploring the area before we decided it was time to visit a biergarten.

Semperoper

Dresden Cathedral

Walkway at Hauptstrabe

Crossing back over the bridge as the late afternoon set in, we strolled along the Brühlsche Terrasse towards the Kunstakademie. We eventually made our way to get some bratwurst and currywurst and then to a pub to grab some traditional German Weissbier. We departed Dresden at 5:30pm, but not before seeing a spectacle of police power as a seemingly endless row of police vans and officers dressed in riot gear were waiting at the train station for some potentially unruly fans returning from a soccer match that did not end up in their teams favor.

Along Brühlsche Terrasse

Essentially, our route around the city was a big circle, allowing us to view the major sites and buildings, sample some food and beer, and enjoy the springtime weather in Germany. It’s easily accomplished in 1 day without feeling rushed due to the compactness of the city center. Food and drink prices are reasonable for Germany, with beer costing between 3-4 euros, coffee around 3, and food anywhere from 2 for street food to 10 euro for a burger. We didn’t need to buy any public transportation pass. For history buffs, the restoration work that was done to bring back many of the war-torn structures is remarkable. Albeit quieter this time of year, it didn’t have the hustle and bustle of Berlin, making it a bit more enjoyable to walk around at any pace. A tip I’ve heard is to visit Dresden for the Christmas Markets in November and December.

Auschwitz

1.1-1.6 million people were killed at Auschwitz, and while the final figure may never be known, it remains the site of the worst act of mass murder in human history. The site that remain has been preserved to serve as both a museum and memorial to the victims. 

Auschwitz is about an hour and a half bus ride from Kraków. The weather was dreary that morning, but irregardless, sunny weather wouldn’t brighten anyones spirits during the tour. I booked a tour through my hostel for 135 PLN ($34 USD), and was provided roundtrip door-to-door transportation in a van, group entrance to both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II (Birkenau) and a guided tour of both sites (3.5 hour combined tour between both sites).

The van arrived to pick me up at the hostel around 9:30am. After a few more stops to pick up some other people, we were on our way and arrived around 11:15am. I met some other travelers from the UK, Australia, South Korea, and Qatar, all who were on their first visit to Kraków and Auschwitz.

The ground of Auschwitz I

Arbeit macht frei is a German phrase meaning “work makes (you) free”.

Our guided tour, consisting of walking among the buildings and touring many of the original “blocks”, lasted 2.5 hours. At the request of the museum, we asked to refrain from taking picture in certain buildings. It was difficult as we toured the blocks that once housed the “lucky” ones who were fortunate to live in the work camps. Few words were needed to truly understand the atrocities that once took place where we were currently standing. Some of the rooms displaying personal artifacts, such as shoes, combs, luggage, glasses, and most touching, human hair, were very moving and the entire camp cast a somber and sad feeling at each turn.

One of the original buildings. Some have been untouched and will remain that way to preserve history.

One of the stories we were told was that the Nazi’s tricked the Jews into thinking they would be going for a shower after their multi-day train ride to Auschwitz, only to be led into underground gas chambers and killed. What is even more sad and ironic is that the chemical gas used to “exterminate” these defenseless people was originally created by a Jewish scientist.

After touring the main extermination camp, our van brought us to Birkenau (or Auschwitz II). It was a larger camp than Auschwitz I. It is also much more desolate as many of the original wooden buildings were eventually torn town. Only the foundations and chimneys remain for many of the blocks.

Birkenau (Auschwitz II)

This location, however, is infamous for the train tracks that lead to no-where. Here, we saw where the trains would bring in deported Jews from the ghettos throughout Europe. As they debarked the train cars, they would form a line in front of doctors who would take 1-2 seconds to decide if you would live (point right) or die (point left). Those deemed fit to work would usually work for 3-6 months until they either died of exhaustion or were no longer fit to work. Some who survived until liberation have gone on to write many famous books. 

A replica train car that was used to transport Jewish deportees

We walked around the grounds, seeing the memorial and few original structures still standing. The one we entered was an original bunk house on one of the blocks. 600-800 people would be crammed into these small halls and sleep in bunks 3 high, 4 on each level.

Typical bunk house…no mattress, just concrete or wood

A somber and sobering experience; certainly one I will not forget. If you travel to Kraków, I urge you to see this historical site for its significance in our history and to pay respects to the millions of innocent lives lost during The Holocaust. We will never know what the victims could have been and their contributions to society. However, we can only work together to make sure the same atrocities do not happen again.

Kraków, Poland

I decided it was time to take another trip and, after some contemplation about where to go, Kraków won the top spot. As a neighboring country to the Czech Republic, Poland is an easy long weekend trip (Friday-Sunday). While Poland is part of the EU, it does not use the Euro. Like the Czech Republic, they use their own currency, the zloty (PLN). At the time of this post, $1 USD was equal to about 4 PLN.

For ~60 Euro ($64 USD), I was provided roundtrip transportation via the regional train company RegioJet, which took took me on a 3.5 hour journey to the border town of Ostrava, where I switched to their bus service for the remaining 2.5 hours to Kraków.

Image of a RegioJet train courtesy of RegioJet.cz

I arrived to Kraków shortly after 10pm local time Thursday evening and was eager to get some rest so I would be refreshed and ready to explore in the morning. 

I booked a tour to Auschwitz for Friday. See the following post on Auschwitz. It was an all day trip, which was a moving experience to witness the location of so many horrors against humanity. My return to Kraków in the evening was followed up with dinner and drinks with a friend who lives and works in Kraków. She also offered to be my “Tour Guide” for the weekend, a much appreciated gesture. Thank you again!!

We were unfortunately greeted on Saturday by some more unfavorable weather but it didn’t dampen our spirits as we hit the streets to explore the city. After enjoying some coffee and some pastries at a local café, we walked to the castle. Wawel Castle sits atop a hill overlooking to Visła River.

Wawel Castle

We explored the grounds of the castle and then decided to escape the rain and took a tour of the cathedral and museum. The cathedral houses many religious artifacts from prior popes, as well as countless historical royal garb. We were also able to view the crypts as well as climb the bell tower. After our tour, we made our way down to see the infamous “Dragon of Wawel Hill”. Legend has it that the dragon once terrorized the land before a prince was able to trick and kill the dragon. The sculpture stands at the base of the cave where it was though to have originally lived. The dragon sculpture that is now present breathes fire every 5 minutes to the delight of visitors.

After the display, we made our way to the Rynek Głowny (Main Square). Designated as the largest medieval square in Europe and a UNESCO heritage site, it is usually filled with street vendors and performers. We walked around before deciding to get some food and drink and went to a small restaurant/bar called Pub Pijalnia. These are soviet-era establishment that make you feel like you have stepped back in time. They are known for serving up various shots of liquor with different ingredients. I tried one with vodka, raspberry, and tabasco, so you can imagine the hit of vodka, followed by the sweetness of raspberry, then the sting of tabasco at the end.

Rynek Głowny with Cloth Hall in the background.

Satisfied, we decided to try our luck at a local pierogi shop. We sampled a few types, including meat, potato, and berry filled dumplings. After, we walked around the square over to the Collegium Maius courtyard and Florian Gate that used to be the original entrance to the city. The courtyard is part of Jagiellonian University, the second oldest university in Central Europe (behind Charles University in Prague), founded in 1364.

For dinner, I wanted to try one of the “Bar Mleczny”, or Milk Bars. These are almost like “canteen” or cafeteria style restaurants with cheap but hearty plates of food for very reasonable prices. I tried potatoes with hunters sauce, which was liken to a stew type gravy. Verdict: delicious.

Kraków is known for a vibrant nightlife and it certainly has a young feel to it. After walking around all day, we tried one of the local shot bars, then found a local place for some mulled beer. Zapiekanka (think of french bread pizza but with endless toppings) made an appearance somewhere between the bars, which, for about $2 USD, couldn’t be a better deal given the freshness and amazing taste. Eating and drinking in Kraków is very inexpensive but does not skip on taste, quality, or variety. 

Cloth Hall at dusk

Sunday greeted us with better weather. We took a long walk around the Jewish Quarter, viewing historic synagogues, and ducking into a local café for some coffee and cake. We passed over the river to see a memorial square where the Jews from the ghetto’s were deported to concentration camps. The space is marked with empty chairs, symbolizing that they packed up many things but left many homes and places empty, never to return again. Each chair represents 1000 Jews deported.

We strolled along the river up to the castle again, where the sun was shining bright and visitors were abound. Thankfully, we viewed the grounds and museum yesterday, as long queues had formed for both tickets and general entrance.

After, we went back to the Kazimierz district to get some more pierogies, and they were the best had had so far. Spinach/Chicken, Russian style with potatoes and garlic, and then dessert ones filled with plums and covered in butter and cinnamon capped off a great culinary experience in the city. We also sampled buttermilk, a popular drink to have with most meals.

Each plate was a 1/2 portion and cost about 4PLN or $1USD

After a short stop back at the hostel to retrieve my backpack, it was off to the main square to enjoy the sunshine for the few remaining hours before I departed on my joinery back to Prague. The energy in the square was clear with the noise of tourists, performers, and the open air market. 

St. Marys Basilica

After seeing the square again from some different spots, it was time to head towards the main train station, where my bus awaited to take me back to Ostrava, and then a train to Prague. It was a great weekend. I hadn’t felt such a strong sense of “not wanting to leave” in a while. I had a pit in my stomach not because I dreaded going back to Prague, but because I enjoyed Kraków so much. While short, it was filled with exploration, new experiences, and memorable times. Good food, drink, laughs, people, and memories to last a lifetime make any trip worthwhile in my opinion.

As I plan my next trip, I can only hope to have the same feeling of satisfaction.

Are there any places that have left you wanting more or where you couldn’t wait to visit again?

Navigating the Visa Process

Disclaimer: This is only a personal account of the visa process I went through to obtain legal status to live and work in the Czech Republic. Each situation is different and should be handled accordingly. One consult a professional for more details and requirements.

Plane Ticket: “Check“

Job/Training Course: “Check“

Temporary Accommodations: “Check“

Visa: “Uhhhhh, hold on a sec“

If one is considering living abroad for an extended period of time, getting legal may not be the first thing that pops into your mind when you think, “hmm, I think I’ll live here”. Typically it’s, “where do I want to go, what do I want to see/do, where should I stay?”. However, it is an important point to consider and research to determine eligibility requirements and so-forth. Depending on the country you intend to live in, there could be a very quick or somewhat laborious process…this article discusses my experience getting my visa to live and work in the Czech Republic.

The Czech Republic is part of the Schengen Zone, which is a membership of 26 European countries that have eliminated passport and immigration controls between their borders. This allows for free travel in and out of the zone. However, it does not consist of the same countries that are part of the European Union, as not all member countries are part of this zone and some non EU countries are part of the Schengen Zone.

American Citizens traveling to this area are allowed visa-free access to the Schengen countries for 90 days in any 180 day period (does not need to be consecutive). If one intends to extend their stay, then they would need to apply for a visa. Otherwise, one must leave the zone for 180 days, at which time the 90-day window will reset and you can stay for an additional 90 days without a visa.

Here is a run-down of the typical visa process one may experience (err, endure) if coming from the USA (note, my British counterparts do not need to go through this…lucky folks). I personally recommend using a professional service to help you navigate this process. Since you need many copies made, translated into Czech, notarized, signed, and organized, the fee is well worth the hassle and stress. Not to mention, they schedule your appointment and help with the police and tax office registration.

Since I would be teaching here in Prague, it was best to apply for a Živnostensky List (Trade License) at the same time as my visa. This would allow me to work as a freelancer, leaving me able to work for whoever I want, rather than be tied to 1 employer. This needs to be done within 90 days of my arrival to the Schengen Zone.

Forms needed to apply:

-Bank Statements showing that you have at least 110,000 kc ($6000USD) in money in your account. This needs to come from your bank and be dated sometime within the past 6 months. This is to prove you have sufficient funds to support you before you are officially approved for your visa and can legally begin working. This will need to be translated into Czech.

-Consent for Business Address (Souhlas s umístením sídla podnikani) form signed and notarized by your landlord allowing your address to be used “for your business”

-Signed and stamped paper acknowledging formal employment offer in the Czech Republic.

-Notarized affidavit declaring clean criminal history and record.

-Visa and Trade License Application

Applying:

-Once your forms are in order, you make an appointment to interview at a Czech  Embassy outside the Czech Republic. Closest cities for this are Berlin, Vienna, and Bratislava.

-You interview at the Embassy and submit your paperwork and pay the application and embassy fee. The embassy has up to 60 business days to make a decision on your visa application.

Once Approved:

-You need to purchase comprehensive medical insurance covering you for the entire period of your visa (6 months minimum).

-Travel back to the same embassy you applied at to pick up your visa.

– Register with the Foreign Police within 3 days of returning to the CZ

-Register at the Tax and Social Security office to get your Tax ID and trade license.

-Provide copies of your trade license, if requested, to your employer.

-As you technically work for yourself, you will be required to pay your own taxes (about 1800kc/month).

Wa-la!! You’re now legal…for 6 months. While the renewal process (which can give you up to 2 additional years) is not as intense, one can also have their visa expire, at which time, their 180 day period would be complete, and they get an additional 90 days, visa free.

Pro’s:

-You are your own boss/independent contractor so you basically control your own schedule.

-Health Insurance is cheap (compared to US standards). 6 months will cost anywhere from $100-300 USD and their standard of care is that of most industrialized countries.

Con’s:

-Fees. All-told, it cost around 12,000 kc ($500 USD) to get the visa + plus travel to/from the embassy 2 times + plus the ~2000 kc/month social tax

-As mentioned, its a long process for only a 6 month period.

-Need to pay own taxes each month.

-Time. You need to have all this completed and approved within 90 days to have legal status to live here. In addition, you cannot legally work during this period and, once approved, cannot work “full time”. If you think you will over stay the 90 days, you can travel to a non-Schengen Zone country for a period and then return so that your 90-days limit is not exceeded. Since the 90 days does not need to be consecutive (but just 90 days within 180) this is a common solution to the possible issue.

 

Regardless of the process, fees, etc., it needed to be done so I could live and work here. It was a valuable learning experience in what countless others go through when moving to a different country. For me, it was a perspective on “immigrating” to a country and going through the process. Plus, I got to visit Berlin twice!

Day in the Life: English Teacher in Prague

Walking through the streets of Prague on my way to teach a lesson

As discussed in a prior post, one option for work in Prague is to teach through a Language Company. This is the path I chose instead of teaching children as I wanted to have more opportunity to focus on business english and to work with adults. Each day provides a new perspective and experience and this post is about a typical workday I have here in Prague.

Day-in-the-Life: TEFL Teacher

Night before: Pack my bag with all the lesson material I need for the following day. This saves rushing through in the morning to make sure I have everything and lessen’s the possibility of forgetting something.

Prepping for the next day

06:30: Wake up, shower, eat breakfast. Check email for any student cancellations. 

07:30: Catch the bus/tram/trolley next to my flat to the metro/subway.

07:50: Arrive at location, get to room, set up materials for lesson.

Coffee always helps to jumpstart my day

08:00: Begin teaching 60 or 90 minute lesson. I have lessons every morning at 8 or 8:30.

Kebab is a quick, cheap, and tasty meal if you are on-the-go. There are countless shops selling them around Prague

09:00-14:00: Travel to my next lesson(s) or to the Language Company I am employed at to prep for upcoming classes during the week or for the following week. I use this office as my “Home Base” since it’s centrally located in the city and has great facilities for preparing lessons, looking at resources, and printing. I also eat lunch during this time as well (usually pack some sandwich or grab something on my way).

14:00: Travel to next class (Usually a tram ride and then a short walk) and teach a lesson.

16:30: Catch tram/trolley back to flat.

17:30*: Arrive home, unpack, relax. 

18:00: Cook Dinner

20:00: Review tomorrow’s schedule and pack bag

*I have “night classes” 2 times per week, until 19:00 or 20:00, so my schedule is slightly different and I do not arrive home until 20 or 21:00. I normally have food somewhere close-by to the class.

Other notes:

-On a normal day, I teach anywhere from 3-5 lessons. Each lesson is always different in some unique way and I usually end up learning something new in each of them.

-There is a fair amount of travel involved for only a few classes. Thankfully 1/2 of my days are blocked scheduled in 1 location so the traveling is minimized. If I find myself with some additional time between lessons and I do not want to go back to my flat, I may sometimes choose to inhabit a local cafe or try a new spot to relax.

-Whereas people in some “normal” jobs may be able to ramp up their day after they arrive to the office, with teaching, you need to be “on your game” once the lesson begins. You need to be both mentally and physically present in order to deliver thoughtful and beneficial lessons to your students.

-I know many teachers who have more classes than I. Regardless, it’s a lot of effort for minimal pay (by US standards), but the experience of meeting different groups of people, learning about various industries, and helping others learn English is a very rewarding experience.

-The autonomy of creating my own schedule, lessons, and being my own boss was and still is a big reason why I chose this path to teaching. Basically, I am a freelancer entrepreneur. Your name becomes your brand and you continually work to grow and hone your skill-set.

Everyone’s experience teaching is different and no two teachers are the same. Regardless of if you are teaching children or adults, each teacher serves an important role in the education of their students. I take personal pride whenever I see or hear that education being put to use or hear anecdotes about how my students can use their English to better their life and career.