Dresden, a city once 90% destroyed during the bombing of Dresden in February 1945, shows few signs of its former ruins as it has been slowly rebuilt over the past 70 years. The city sits along the Elbe River and is close the Czech border, making it a nice day-trip from Prague.
One of the main bus companies (Eurolines) was offering a 2-for-1 ticket deal, with roundtrip tickets costing 425kc (~$16.50). So a group of us purchased tickets and our bus left Prague at 7am, making the 2 hour drive to the central station (Haúptbahnhof) in Dresden. After getting oriented, we walked to view one of the many old cathedrals, Kreuzkirche. Following the main road, we then went around to the main square (Neumarkt), where we saw Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). Originally from the 11th Century, it was rebuilt in 1743. Later, the church was absolutely demolished during the bombings, only to be completely restored in 2012.
Neumarkt with Frauenkirche to the right
We then walked by the Fürstenzug (Procession of Princes), the longest ceramic mural in the world, on the side of Dresden Castle. After roaming through the courtyard, we ate brunch outside Altmarkt area, enjoying the better-than-expected weather. With our stomachs full and thirst quenched, we toured Zwinger Palace. Originally part of the outer fortress wall protecting the city, it was later transformed into a museum complex. Most of the artwork collection was safely removed before the bombing and after being reconstructed, it opened back up in the mid-1960’s. While under some restoration work during our tour, it was still a beautiful site to view. There was even a wedding couple getting photos taken.
Fürstenzug (Procession of Princes) at a length of 102 metres (335 ft)The grounds inside Zwinger PalaceDresden Castle
We then walked to the Semperoper (Opera House) before seeing the Dresden Cathedral as we walked over the Elbe River and toured the other side of the river. There was a beautiful pedestrian walkway lined with small shops and apartments. We spent a little time exploring the area before we decided it was time to visit a biergarten.
SemperoperDresden CathedralWalkway at Hauptstrabe
Crossing back over the bridge as the late afternoon set in, we strolled along the Brühlsche Terrasse towards the Kunstakademie. We eventually made our way to get some bratwurst and currywurst and then to a pub to grab some traditional German Weissbier. We departed Dresden at 5:30pm, but not before seeing a spectacle of police power as a seemingly endless row of police vans and officers dressed in riot gear were waiting at the train station for some potentially unruly fans returning from a soccer match that did not end up in their teams favor.
Along Brühlsche Terrasse
Essentially, our route around the city was a big circle, allowing us to view the major sites and buildings, sample some food and beer, and enjoy the springtime weather in Germany. It’s easily accomplished in 1 day without feeling rushed due to the compactness of the city center. Food and drink prices are reasonable for Germany, with beer costing between 3-4 euros, coffee around 3, and food anywhere from 2 for street food to 10 euro for a burger. We didn’t need to buy any public transportation pass. For history buffs, the restoration work that was done to bring back many of the war-torn structures is remarkable. Albeit quieter this time of year, it didn’t have the hustle and bustle of Berlin, making it a bit more enjoyable to walk around at any pace. A tip I’ve heard is to visit Dresden for the Christmas Markets in November and December.
1.1-1.6 million people were killed at Auschwitz, and while the final figure may never be known, it remains the site of the worst act of mass murder in human history. The site that remain has been preserved to serve as both a museum and memorial to the victims.
Auschwitz is about an hour and a half bus ride from Kraków. The weather was dreary that morning, but irregardless, sunny weather wouldn’t brighten anyones spirits during the tour. I booked a tour through my hostel for 135 PLN ($34 USD), and was provided roundtrip door-to-door transportation in a van, group entrance to both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II (Birkenau) and a guided tour of both sites (3.5 hour combined tour between both sites).
The van arrived to pick me up at the hostel around 9:30am. After a few more stops to pick up some other people, we were on our way and arrived around 11:15am. I met some other travelers from the UK, Australia, South Korea, and Qatar, all who were on their first visit to Kraków and Auschwitz.
The ground of Auschwitz IArbeit macht frei is a German phrase meaning “work makes (you) free”.
Our guided tour, consisting of walking among the buildings and touring many of the original “blocks”, lasted 2.5 hours. At the request of the museum, we asked to refrain from taking picture in certain buildings. It was difficult as we toured the blocks that once housed the “lucky” ones who were fortunate to live in the work camps. Few words were needed to truly understand the atrocities that once took place where we were currently standing. Some of the rooms displaying personal artifacts, such as shoes, combs, luggage, glasses, and most touching, human hair, were very moving and the entire camp cast a somber and sad feeling at each turn.
One of the original buildings. Some have been untouched and will remain that way to preserve history.
One of the stories we were told was that the Nazi’s tricked the Jews into thinking they would be going for a shower after their multi-day train ride to Auschwitz, only to be led into underground gas chambers and killed. What is even more sad and ironic is that the chemical gas used to “exterminate” these defenseless people was originally created by a Jewish scientist.
After touring the main extermination camp, our van brought us to Birkenau (or Auschwitz II). It was a larger camp than Auschwitz I. It is also much more desolate as many of the original wooden buildings were eventually torn town. Only the foundations and chimneys remain for many of the blocks.
Birkenau (Auschwitz II)
This location, however, is infamous for the train tracks that lead to no-where. Here, we saw where the trains would bring in deported Jews from the ghettos throughout Europe. As they debarked the train cars, they would form a line in front of doctors who would take 1-2 seconds to decide if you would live (point right) or die (point left). Those deemed fit to work would usually work for 3-6 months until they either died of exhaustion or were no longer fit to work. Some who survived until liberation have gone on to write many famous books.
A replica train car that was used to transport Jewish deportees
We walked around the grounds, seeing the memorial and few original structures still standing. The one we entered was an original bunk house on one of the blocks. 600-800 people would be crammed into these small halls and sleep in bunks 3 high, 4 on each level.
Typical bunk house…no mattress, just concrete or wood
A somber and sobering experience; certainly one I will not forget. If you travel to Kraków, I urge you to see this historical site for its significance in our history and to pay respects to the millions of innocent lives lost during The Holocaust. We will never know what the victims could have been and their contributions to society. However, we can only work together to make sure the same atrocities do not happen again.
I write this post from my temporary flat as I relax for the first time after a busy but fun-filled first few days in the Czech Republic.
I decided to arrive in Prague a few days ahead of my scheduled TEFL course and 2 days before I was to move in with my host for 5 weeks. I felt that the extra time would allow for minimal inconveniences with any trip delays, time to adjust to the 6-hr time difference, and just getting somewhat acclimated to living in a foreign country (no biggie, right?). After being here for 2 days, I can safely say it was a good idea.
My first test of patience came even before I set foot in the airport. At noon on the day I was leaving, I received an email from Lufthansa asking for me to call them due to a change in my reservation. As my flight was scheduled to leave that evening, I quickly called the service number, only to be informed that my flight through Frankfurt would be delayed 8.5 hours. As a result, I would miss my connecting flight to Prague. The representative on the other line was very accommodating, and while there were no other connecting flights out of Frankfurt that day, she was able to get me on a flight leaving 2 hours earlier out of Boston and flying through Munich instead. While my potential hassle was limited, I consider it a first test of being flexible with travel, and to expect the unexpected. Even if I was unable to be rebooked and had to find a different connection, I still would’ve made it to Prague before class started and wouldn’t be scrambling around stressed should I had just flown in the day before class.
New tickets to replace my previous flight
I enjoyed one last meal at an airport restaurant with my mom and brother before saying my final goodbyes as I headed through security. Saying goodbye is never easy, and while I know I will be able to keep in touch with them via several internet-based apps until I get a new phone, it was still difficult since I don’t definitively know when I may see them again. Nonetheless, I was (and still am) overly excited and optimistic about my new journey and what lies ahead!
My overnight flight was full as most people who were on my original flight ended up re-booking as well. The flight itself was good, and I enjoyed dinner, drinks, a movie, a nap, and then breakfast during the 7 hour flight (13 hours if you account for the time change). The service provided by Lufthansa was great and while our flight arrived in Munich the following morning under cloudy skies, the airport was easy to navigate and connecting was a breeze. I was also in luck as I awaited my next flight as the terminal offered a complimentary coffee bar that gave me the caffeine boost I needed to get into Prague.
After arriving in Prague, it was easy to navigate through the airport to the luggage collection area and ATM to get some local currency (the koruna). Prague has not yet adopted the Euro and no set plans are in place to do so in the near future. As of this post, the exchange rate is about $1 USD=21.3 CZK. I quickly used that money to buy an Airport Express bus ticket which would provide a direct route to my hostel.
Upon my arrival to Hostel One Home in Prague 1, I was greeted by two of the hostel staff. The hostel itself is in an old building but is very well maintained (I later learned that beer used to be brewed in the courtyard behind our building). The hosts, Lucy and Spencer, couldn’t be more welcoming and friendly. I was given a tour of the hostel, which was medium-sized at 42 beds, and then settled into my room. Even though I was tired, I needed to eat and went in search of food and found a pub about a block away, where I was introduced to Czech food and beer. Czech’s are known for having very good pilsner beer and I quickly learned that it truly is cheaper than water here (25 kc for a 50ml water and 17 kc for a 50ml beer from a local shop). I got a traditional meat plate with potato dumplings. While heavy, it was flavorful and filling. I then headed back to the hostel to get a map and then went out walking to explore the area.
I walked around the Old Town, saw the famous astronomical clock tower go off at 6pm, and then walked to the Charles Bridge, where you can take in the sights along the river. It was dinner time when I arrived back to the hostel. One reason I chose this hostel is that they offer a free “family” dinner each night at 8pm, which is a great way to meet other solo travelers. The dinner group comprised of around 60% solo folks, 40% couples/small groups. There were people from the UK, Mexico, Brazil, Germany, Canada, Australian, and the US at the table. Most were on holiday from university, taking an extended vacation, or passing through on a short trip. We all quickly struck up conversation and enjoyed a hearty dinner prepared by the hostel staff. Family and friends know me as an extrovert, but I can easily be an introvert when surrounded by people I don’t know. I had read the reviews about this hostel and how they try to create a family atmosphere. While it can be difficult to do so with such a constant change of people coming and going, they make you feel right at home so quickly that you form acquaintance easily. As I become more comfortable in the days and weeks ahead, I know this will be easier. To note, part of the reason for doing what I am doing is to work on that and be more comfortable around strangers. Hostels are a great way to bridge the gap and this one does a great job at it.
Everywhere you turn you are met with beautiful buildings and architectureOne of the main squares in Old TownVlata River taken from The Charles Bridge
After dinner, the hostel staff rearranged the tables and started a game to get to know everyone more. Around 10:30 pm (rather, 22:30), everyone in the group headed out to a local bar (~20-25 people). The hostel organizes activities and trips each afternoon and night which further facilitates conversation. The bars are similar to US bars and there are a variety of types to choose from. They do stay open much later here and while the Metro only runs till about 12:30am, a night bus services can readily accommodate your travels home (I even found that Uber operates here but have not yet tried it out).
The following day encompassed more exploration of the city with some folks from the hostel, including a walk through a local market, viewing the Lennon Wall, a stop at the top of the hill that offers wide-sweeping views into the valley of Prague, and a relaxing lunch at a bar on top of the valley. We even came across a movie scene being filmed, which was currently filming a winter scene, complete with fake snow all over the road. However, an attempt to capture this on camera was thwarted by a movie hand waving at me saying no in Czech…alas! A few of us decided to go on a riverside tour that evening. This was really cool as you first went on a bus that brought you to the riverside. There you created a personalized stencil to use on the Lennon Wall. This is the only legal place in the county where you can graffiti. I chose to create a “Boston” stencil and proudly spray-painted it on the wall. We learned some about the local history as we walked through a park and saw some of the architecture and art sculptures created by David Cerny adorning the walkways. We then ate dinner before proceeding to the riverside where we were able to enjoy live music. As we headed back towards the Old Town, our guide, who owns and runs similar tours in 5 different countries, was really informative about the historical significance of the buildings we were passing, as well as some quirks about the country For instance, before official addresses were created, each place of business or residence created a symbol to use. So instead of going to 123 First Street, you could have been given the direction to look for “The Golden Lion” symbol above the door.
Lennon WallThe “Peeing Statues” by David Cerny
Saturday involved the task of making my way over to my host apartment and using the Metro System for the first time. In essence, the Metro system here is clean, effective, and efficient and one that puts the subway system I know back home to shame (while grateful for the T, we all know it needs serious work). Besides being directionally impaired when I got off the tram, I eventually made it to the apartment and got settled. In the evening, I planned on meeting up with some future classmates at a local pub (ironically called Lokal). Tomorrow will afford me an opportunity to explore the surrounding area by the apartment and find a grocery store to get some food.
Whew- this was a long post…I’ll have to work on shortening my stories next time…anyway, hope you enjoy!
P.S. I also post photos to Instagram so be sure to check that out too!
Travelnues 