My first trip outside the Czech Republic since arriving here in early September was to the Capital City of Berlin, Germany. However, the purpose of this trip was not solely for pleasure: I had an appointment to apply for my visa at the Czech Embassy in Berlin. Regardless, the prospects of visiting a new country excited me and formed a rough plan of sites to see during my quick 24 hour trip.
I decided to arrive in Berlin the night before my appointment due to the bus and train schedules, which would put me with little to no time to find my way to the Embassy. In doing so, I also alleviated any headaches and stress in travel delays and gave myself a few hours in the morning to explore parts of Berlin. There are several bus lines that go between Prague and Berlin and I ultimately decided to go with Student Agency bus service. Despite the name sounding like a student service, it is actually a very popular bus line for travelers of any age.
My bus left one of the city’s main depots at 5:30pm Tuesday and the ride was smooth and without issue. The bus offered free WIFI, hot drinks, and a personal entertainment system in each headrest with choice of movies, TV, music, and games. With the on-board “Cabin Attendant”, I felt more like I was flying on a plane than sitting on a bus. I spent most of the 5 hour journey watching 42 (Jackie Robinson biography) and The Town (had to get my fix of Boston).
We arrived in Berlin ahead of schedule and I then navigated my way to the nearest metro stop. Berlin’s system is composed of 2 main parts that serve the city: the U-Bahn (underground) and S-Bahn (above-ground). Buses also fill all points in-between. After some confusion and construction delays on the U-Bahn, my anticipated 30 minute trip took 1.5 hrs before arriving at Wombats Hostel.
Upon checking in, the receptionist handed me a voucher for a free drink at their rooftop bar (affectionately called the womBAR). Once I settled into my room and made-up my bed, I headed to the 7th floor to grab a drink. It was very busy but a great place to unwind after a long day. I enjoyed a beer and hung out for a bit before deciding it was best to get some rest and be ready to go in the morning.
In the morning, I awoke, packed up my things, and headed out around 8:45. I had previously mapped out a few places I wanted to visit, including a memorial dedicated to the Berlin Wall, the Brandenburg Gate, Reichstag (Parliament Building), Checkpoint Charlie, and any other interesting stops along my route. After getting some euros, I quickly made my way up to the Bernauer Straus Park where there was the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall Memorial) which had several monuments commemorating the division of Berlin from 1961-1989. As I walked along the street, I passed several points detailing the history of the wall, attempts to flee from East to West Berlin, and the tragedies that occurred when families were separated between the concrete wall. There is also a 60m section of the original wall. I found it a bit eery that most of the buildings immediately adjacent the Wall did not have windows that would face or look onto the opposing side. Although it was a moving and somber memorial, it is quickly contrasted by the hustle and bustle of everyday life as people commuted to work or went to school on the street parallel the park.
Following the memorial, I decided to head to the mitte area (or “Heart of Berlin”) to walk down Unter den Linden (main street) and see some more sites. The street is known for being a beautiful tree-lined beautiful but unfortunately a fair amount of construction was going on, thus taking away from the otherwise picturesque walk. I decided it was time for coffee and I ducked into a café to get my caffeine fix.
Sufficiently caffeinated after a nice cappuccino, I continued my walking tour of Berlin. I came up to the Bradenburg Gate, which symbolizes the tumultuous history of Germany and was the backdrop for many demonstrations during the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989. It is also the site where President Regan said the infamous statement “Mr. Gorbachov – tear down this wall!”. Crews were cleaning up scaffolding and remnants of celebrations that had occurred 2 days prior to mark the 25th anniversary since the fall of the Berlin Wall. Walking around the gate and through a small park, I found myself in front of the Reichstag (German Parliament) building. While tours of it are free, advanced reservations are required…duly noted for next time. It was built during the 19th Century and its centerpiece is a large glass dome that houses the main hall for Parliament.
It was only about 11am by this time and my interview was not until 1:30. With more time than expected, I decided to look at my map and find a few more points of interest before making my way over to the embassy. I walked back down the Unter den Linden to Gendarmenmarkt, which is an open square that houses a concert hall and two cathedrals. Workers were setting up shop for one of the large winter markets that take place. A short walk then brought me to Checkpoint Charlie, which is the most famous border crossing between East and West Berlin during the Cold War. Even though the area is now overrun with commercial enterprises and businesses (a 2 story McDonald’s overshadows the small guard post), the historical photos gave a glimpse into the tensions that were once a daily occurrence in the area. As my time started to run out, I grabbed some German currywurst for lunch and then headed to the Embassy.
My appointment at the Embassy went off without a problem and with all my paperwork submitted, I just need to wait and see when my visa will be approved. After leaving the Embassy with one of my classmates who also had an appointment at the same time, we found our way to the Topography of Terror Museum, which housed original sections of the wall, as a well as the former site of the SS and Gestapo Headquarters during the Nazi Regime.
We then walked by Checkpoint Charlie on our way to the UI-Behn to make our way to Alexander-platz square to grab some food. While our intent once arriving at Alexander-platz was to get food and explore, we had difficulty getting our bearings and only found enough time to find a place to grab a quick bite to eat and then grab a coffee…at no other place than Dunkin’ Donuts! As we sat in the shop, I felt as though I could have very well just have been home haha.
We then made our way back to the bus station in time to catch our 5pm bus back to Prague. As I write this on the bus while somewhere between Berlin and Dresden, I can’t help but think of the excitement I had coming to Berlin. Even if it was only for 1 day, I accomplished and saw a lot. While there were a few sites that remain to be seen (Museum Island, TV Tower, etc), I look forward to going back in a month to pick up my visa and see some more.
Till next time, Auf Wiedersehen!
Some Additional Notes
-The metro system (U or S-Bahn) is clean, efficient, and effective. It is also an honor-based system where there is no gate the pass before entering the station. You just need a validated ticket or pass.
-The city is also very clean and well maintained. A lot of construction and refurbishment was going on in advance of the winter-season ahead.
-Berlin appears to have a very prolific bike scene and have an extensive bike sharing network throughout the city (like Hubway back in Boston). The sheer amount of people commuting in the morning by bike was like nothing I had seen before. This is one downside of Prague, where they have not yet adopted a bike-sharing network. While it could be due in part to the walk-ability of Prague (being a smaller city), or to their efficient tram system, I still see the benefit of such a bike network for visitors and locals alike.
-Prices are more in line with most other European Countries. Here’s a quick rundown of my trip costs:
Trip Costs (in Euros/EUR/€)
Transportation: 60€. 52€ for roundtrip bus and 10€ for 1-day metro pass:
Accommodations: 10€ for 1-night stay in hostel
Food: 15€ for coffee and food for 1 day
Misc: 95€. To note, 90€ was for the Embassy Fee.
Travelnues 
Great narrative Jeff. As a young child I remember the Cold War and sadness I felt when the wall went up. I also remember John Kennedy’s speech of hope to the people of Berlin (both sides) at the wall in 1963.
“Eich bein ein Berliner”
The wrath of Hitler must also be felt present as you walk the streets of the city? I wonder how much actually remains after the allies practically leveled the city in the final days of WW II.
Greenan
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Thanks Greenan-it was certainly a somber area. While many parts of the city were leveled, they did a good job restoring many of the buildings throughout the city. It helps tell the story of what occurred and what we hope will not occur again!
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